Sunday, July 7, 2013

Parish Church - Part 1

What a challenging project this is turning out to be.  I have no idea how it will turn out but here, anyway, is a report on progress, warts and all.

The kind vicar had allowed me to take pictures and measurements and I found a brilliant android app which allows measurements to be entered onto a photograph. Now that's clever. I think so, but that sort of thing pleases me.


Of course, without incredible rubber man arms and a very long tape measure, estimating the height of the roof, tower and steeple (or anything above about 12/15 feet for that matter) is really hard because of foreshortening (if that's the right word) and the stone blocks being of variable size. In the end I have settled for something that looks about right for the nave walls and roof and will have a go at guessing the heights of the tower and spire once the nave is done.

So, beginning with the nave and after gratefully received comments on a previous post, the sides are of 30 thou styrene sheet.  The stone surrounds for the windows were cut out separately and scored - the window frame is slightly larger than the window aperture.



Onto the walls I added styrene strips at the bottom for the plinth, at the top for the whatever it's called and between the windows where the buttresses are.  (I haven't decided how I will make any of those yet).  The walls have been braced with Evergreen 10mm "I" sections.  That might be excessive but I took a guess that that this would be sufficient to stop the walls warping when the DAS was applied (as I have read can happen) and it seems to have worked.  The DAS was applied with PVA adhesive, rolled using a wallpaper seam roller (an idea I pinched from Iain Robinson), allowed to harden, sanded then scribed.  The stonework isn't quite right when I look back at the photographs of the real thing but I can correct that later.  I'm impatient to get on.  I did wonder whether 30 thou of DAS might be too thin but it seems to have taken fine.  Perhaps I will come down one morning to find it in little heaps.




The end walls followed the same process but with extra styrene sheet where the chancel and tower will attach.

Before sticking the whole lot together, Squadron filler was applied to smooth off the step between the window apertures and the stone surrounds.  I tried Milliput but the quicker drying Squadron filler was more satisfying for an impatient person.



Now, windows.  I don't know what to do.  From the inside, the windows are beautifully detailed 19th century stained glass.  I'm not going to add the protective screens but how best to represent the real thing?  









13 comments:

  1. Oh my word Chas. This is shaping up to be a thing of beauty. I'll be following this build closely. VERY nice work on the windows and stonework.

    What's this Android App by the way? It sounds very useful :)

    Lee

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    1. Thanks very much Lee. The app is D-Photo Measures and free too! Hope the station building is progressing well. Cheers. Chas

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  2. Chas, I haven't followed your blog until now. Very impressed with your church model. It's not difficult to make really good representations of stained glass windows. Go inside your church, take photos with good lighting showing through from the outside and save the photos as JPG (or similar). The simply print then to your appropriate scale on a colour photocopier using the plastic sheets used for colour overhead projectors. Simply cut them to shape and fit in the window frames. All done. I've used this process before with great results. Rgds Bob P (Australia)

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    1. Update: I am most impressed with your progress - and noticed your concerns about glass windows appearing shiny using this method. That is easily overcome and not an issue. I should have mentioned there is a shiny side and a dull side when you print on overhead transparencies, so display the dull side outwards. The texture of the print is also on the outside and makes the solid black/grey lead between the coloured glass appear built up (like the real thing) as well. If the image faces the wrong way on the transparency then rotate or reverse your image before printing it. If you have wording in the image and it looks back to front that's because the saint's name 'MATTHEW' inside appears as 'WEHTTAM' on the outside of the church. If you have internal lighting it will show the details of the stained glass. Rgds Bob P (Australia)

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    2. Thanks very much Bob. Your tip worked a treat but my attempt at lighting failed. I left the roof removeable for future access to the lighting and then found that there was too much light spilling around the joins (which I should have anticipated) so I gave up! I am still pleased with the window effect in daylight however so thank you very much for the advice. Best wishes, Chas

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  3. The finished stonework of the walls is really something...excellent! It works really well with the styrene surrounds. I like Squadron Green myself, but haven't seen it about for a while. Windows: As there is no fancy gothic astragal work on the windows, I would have a look for some stained glass window illustrations ot photos on the web, then paste them onto a scanned drawing of your actual window in photoshop or another editing package. You can resize and tweak in the program to fit your window...then print out onto OHP sheet. You could take shots of the actual windows from the inside...or am I missing something about the drtail on the windows? Anyway, I can't wait for the next installment!

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  4. Rob and Iain. Thank you both very much, especially for the stained glass window tip. Nice and simple. I am embarrassed not to have thought of it!!!

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  5. What a lovely neat piece of work Chas, the stonework is superb and has a lovely light touch to it.

    I look forward to seeing the finished building complete with stained glass.

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    1. Thanks very much, Geoff. I'm thoroughly enjoying the challenge of this model.

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  6. Wow! This looks fantastic Chas, the texture and character of the building is already very present. Can't wait to see the stained glass effect.

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    1. Thanks Mikkel. I'm still thinking about your suggestion of lighting from the inside. It's not something I've done particularly successfully in any model before - always too bright.

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  7. Oh, yes, it would look so lovely with interior lighting! I generally use two 6v bulbs wired to take 3v each. I also paint them with a wood varnish/stain to make the light like gas light.

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    1. Wood varnish - what a good idea. I have an appointment to photograph the windows next week (the church is locked when not in use) which I am looking forward to.

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